Title: Introducing the new 1942 Dodge! Source:
Chrysler Corporation/You Tube URL Source:http://www.youtube.com Published:Dec 9, 2009 Author:Chrysler Corporation Post Date:2009-12-09 12:53:13 by sneakypete Ping List:*Gear Heads*Subscribe to *Gear Heads* Keywords:hot rod, rat rod, classic car Views:16095 Comments:27
I have one of these rare beauties,but mine is a 3-window business coupe like the one in the photo above. 1942 was a short production year because the 42's came out in Sept of 41,and WW-2 began for the US on 7 Dec.1947. US civilian passenger car production ceased so the auto plants could gear up to produce airplanes,machine guns,tanks,trucks,jeeps,and other war goods.
There were just 5257 business coupes produced that year,making it and parts for it pretty hard to find. I have been looking for a undented and unrusted grille for over 2 years now.
For those of you who think some things are new,the 42 Dodge had child proof rear door handles as standard equipment,and the 1942 DeSoto even had hideaway headlights like the newer Corverttes.
BTW,mine is getting painted pale purple and the original flathhead 6 cylinder engine will have 2 carbs,a split exhaust manifold with duals and glasspacks,and a finned aluminum high compression head with a 3/4 cam. I will be switching out the fluid drive transmission for a 3-speed floor shift transmission from a 37 Dodge. I will probably remove some of the chrome trim and will put 15 inch steel wheels on it with big and little medium whitewall radial tires and "Full Moon" hubcaps.
I will also probably change the bumpers to 49 Dodge bumpers because I think they look better,and I already have them.
BTW,for those of you who are so unfortunate that you have never heard the sound of a flat six with split exhaust,or who think these old engines are so obsolete they are underpowered for toda's driving,enjoy the video above and note the quick acceleration without him even winding the engine out hard.
Do the old school Flat Six engines run OK on unleaded gas, or do you have to use a lead additive? I did when I worked on restoring a 1930 Model A years ago - it would run (kinda) on straight unleaded, but the pinging and banging you got as a result had to be heard to be believed.
What's the difference between Sarah Palin's mouth and other parts of her body? Only some of the things that don't come out of her mouth are retarded.
Yes,it is. I fell in love with these things when I was a little kid in the mid 1950's,and some friends of my older brother had hot rod flat 6 Mopars. I used to bug them all to take me for rides.
Do the old school Flat Six engines run OK on unleaded gas, or do you have to use a lead additive?
All the old engines will run good on unleaded gas if the timing is set right. Amoco used to sell nothing BUT unleaded gas back in the 50's. I know this for a fact,and they were probably doing it in the 40's.
The problem is the lead in gas acted as a lubricant to cool the valves,and a steady diet of unleaded will eventually cause the valves to burn. An occasional addition of lead additive,maybe every two or three tanks,will protect it all you need. The lead really doesn't burn with the gas.
Or,if this worried you,you can always have hardened valve seats installed,and run stainless steel valves. Most people don't bother with this unless they are doing a complete machine shop rebuild where the block is being bored.
I did when I worked on restoring a 1930 Model A years ago - it would run (kinda) on straight unleaded, but the pinging and banging you got as a result had to be heard to be believed.
Chances are your timing was way too high. Model A's only had 4 to 1 compression and they would even run on kerosene. All the companies except for Amoco used lead as a cheap way to boost octane,not as a valve lube. The Amoco gas has octane ratings as high as any competitors gas,so they obviously used some other additive to help boost octane. I have no idea what they used,though.
All the old engines will run good on unleaded gas if the timing is set right. Amoco used to sell nothing BUT unleaded gas back in the 50's. I know this for a fact,and they were probably doing it in the 40's.
Interesting info - thanks. I never laid a wrench on the engine in the Model A (a good friend with the necessary skills rebuilt it). My specialties are sheet metal and instrumentation.
What's the difference between Sarah Palin's mouth and other parts of her body? Only some of the things that don't come out of her mouth are retarded.
I have one of these rare beauties,but mine is a 3-window business coupe like the one in the photo above...I have been looking for a undented and unrusted grille for over 2 years now.
You got one? Cool wheels...Not seeing many of those still around. A '49 grill might make it look more like a Chrysler
Love '40s cars across the board.
Btw, I got a kick out of that torture test (by Car & Driver?).
The '42 coupe interior appears amazingly small in comparison to the bulky size of the rest of the car.
The wildest coupe style imo was the 36-40 Lincoln Zephyr:
LOL. That one's not mine. I paid 995 bucks for mine,and the paint job on that one probably cost more than that. The two photos above are what mine looked like when I bought it. It's mostly apart in my shop now while I do body and chassis work and get it ready for paint. I'm going to paint it using rollers and spray cans.
Yeah,it doesn't look too bad in those photos. That's why I agreed to buy it after the seller assured me it was only surface rust and the floors were solid. When it got here it had rust holes in the floor that you could throw a cat through,parts that were on it in the photos had been taken off and sold by the sellers son (he seemed to think this was no big deal when he told me this in response to my questions about where the missing parts were) and the inner rockers on both sides were gone. This car and the 33 Plymouth coupe are why I bought a English wheel,shrinkers and stretchers,a slip roller, and a industrial sheet metal brake.
The guy I hired to bring it to me had the photos taken of it when it was for sale and the description,and the car was so rough he called me on the phone to describe it and ask me if I really wanted him to bring it to me. Since I had already paid for it and had to pay him if he brought it or not,I told him to ahead and bring it.
The sad part is this was a one-owner car bought by a woman in Boston on Dec 2nd 1941,and she drove mostly to church until she had to quit driving in 1974,and then she just left it parked inside the heated garage where it had spent it's whole life. Hell,there is only one small tear in the upholstery. The original keys were still hanging out of the switch,and when I hooked up a battery to it the interior and dash lights even came on. The seat in it would clean up and be very nice if it weren't for that one tear on the top back of the seat where the bozo I bought it from tore the seat taking stuff out from behind it after he sold it to me.
The guy I bought it from bought it from her estate sale in 1995,and towed it home to Rhode Island,and just left it parked out in the open with grass growing up all around it. It has less than 35,000 miles on it right now,and the engine looked new inside when I dropped the base pan to look.
Only because they were new,introduced in 1942 when production stopped for the nest 4 years. When they geared back up for production of civilian cars in 1946 they dropped the complicated hidden headlights because their concern was stamping out as many cars as they could as quickly as they could to meet the pent-up demand for new cars.
The headlights on the car in the photo you posted are not adjusted properly. The doors should be flush with the fender all around.
Only because they were new,introduced in 1942 when production stopped for the nest 4 years. When they geared back up for production of civilian cars in 1946 they dropped the complicated hidden headlights because their concern was stamping out as many cars as they could as quickly as they could to meet the pent-up demand for new cars.
You're probably right about the "complicated" hidden head lamps not being worth the trouble...Simpler was better and easier.
Desoto no sooner released their "new" style when the war arrived...yep, by '46 remained virtually the same except for blending the front fenders into the doors.
The headlights on the car in the photo you posted are not adjusted properly. The doors should be flush with the fender all around. Also,the grille is bent.
You got good eyes, boss. Yeah, the headlight flaps are not adjusted well at all; they should be more flush. The door's not flush with the fender? Where's the grill bent?
The two photos above are what mine looked like when I bought it. It's mostly apart in my shop now while I do body and chassis work and get it ready for paint. I'm going to paint it using rollers and spray cans.
Yeah,it doesn't look too bad in those photos. That's why I agreed to buy it after the seller assured me it was only surface rust and the floors were solid. When it got here it had rust holes in the floor that you could throw a cat through,parts that were on it in the photos had been taken off and sold by the sellers son (he seemed to think this was no big deal when he told me this in response to my questions about where the missing parts were) and the inner rockers on both sides were gone.
The seat in it would clean up and be very nice if it weren't for that one tear on the top back of the seat where the bozo I bought it from tore the seat taking stuff out from behind it after he sold it to me.
No, not bad. But geez...ANYTHING missing from these cars is a 'big deal"; it's gold. The kid was one greedy idiot.
The guy I bought it from bought it from her estate sale in 1995,and towed it home to Rhode Island,and just left it parked out in the open with grass growing up all around it. It has less than 35,000 miles on it right now,and the engine looked new inside when I dropped the base pan to look.
Nice...Lotta work though Pete. You know what you're doing, so it's a challenge and fun.
Back in '80 I bought a '39 Chevy Master Sedan that had been towed in from a farm in Wyoming. NO rot, surprisingly little oxidation, solid - a great "gangster" car with a few bullet holes in the windows, but NO engine/drive-train. I don't work on cars but a bud of mine did; It was going to be our project-car. We got lucky and found a seller, traveling up to Connecticut from Jersey to buy a drive-train and several missing components...
Shortly after beginning to arrange having it put together I realized it was gonna cost a fortune...and too much time so I sold it all.
Chuckles.....let me know how it works out before I repaint my E ok Pete?
It works out pretty good. I once painted a custom Harley I built for a friend with spray cans,and he came in 2nd in paint at a big custom bike show.
I never used rollers before,but in this case I am going to use them to lay down the Rust-o-Leum marine primer base coats of primer,and then sand it down before using spray cans to shoot the color. Mostly because this particular color only comes in spray cans.
I also have a self-contained high volume low pressure spray unit I can use to spray the primer coats if I don't like the way the roller is working out. In fact I won't have much choice but to use it inside the car because of all the small curved surfaces and the fact that it will be easier to spray than roll on the inside.
The key to this,like every other paint job you will ever see is surface preperation and patience.
I do have an advantage on this paint job,though. I'm not going for the ultra-deep metallic look. I'm going for a suede look that is non-reflective and won't show dirt or get as hot in the sun as a high gloss finish.
I expect to have less than $200 total in this paint job,including sandpaper.
The guy I bought it from bought it from her estate sale in 1995,and towed it home to Rhode Island,and just left it parked out in the open with grass growing up all around it. It has less than 35,000 miles on it right now,and the engine looked new inside when I dropped the base pan to look.