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Opinions/Editorials Title: Anyone ever prime a car with Rustoleum "Paint and Primer in One" spray cans? OK,my 51 coupe sat in a barn for over 25 years before I bought it,and at one time the barn roof obviously leaked where it was parked. Adding to the woe is at least 3 different colors of that old hard Ford enamel. In places,it had been sanded to the bare metal and then painted with no primer. Not to mention the top coat was a latex that had been put on with a roller. Rust is a-poppin out all over! Can't get it in my shop right now because I have both doors blocked with cars up on jackstands,so I have been using a random orbital sander to bring it down to the bare metal to see what I have once the paint and plastic is removed,to get rid of the rust at the surface level,and to prime and paint it to preserve it until I get it in my shop this spring to blow apart and do the body work and paint for real. Right now I am just interested in stopping the rust and preserving it. BTW,when I do paint it "for real" I will also be using a roller and spray cans,but it will be a Dupont self-etching primer and their 2 part epoxy sealer,and I won't be painting it in temps below 60 degrees with a 15-20 mph wind blowing. Poster Comment: Anyone ever use this stuff and have any tips or comments on it? Sounds too good to be true,but if it does work it is a lot cheaper than buying two cans and it saves a lot of time,too.Subscribe to *Gear Heads* Post Comment Private Reply Ignore Thread Top • Page Up • Full Thread • Page Down • Bottom/Latest Begin Trace Mode for Comment # 8. Just use the spray primer. It's easier to sand and if it's only going to be a year, will protect well enough. I would even do just a light coat. Sanding paint is harder than sanding a light rust. Also, on your two part epoxy, use throw away measuring cups and only use what's needed to do one panel at a time. Also use new roller covers every time, de lint them with tape before using. (Cover with tape and pull off to get loose fibers off) you also might want to consider cheating the pot time by 5-10 minutes before applying, not real sure of tack time with that particular epoxy. But some are fairly fast. Wear a respirator for sure. If you change mind and wish to spray the epoxy, make sure machine is good enough to pump it, also use the recommended thinning agent for it to prevent 'fingering'. (An uneven spray, it tends to develop lines at edges of fan)
#8. To: Dead Culture Watch (#6) Just use the spray primer. It's easier to sand and if it's only going to be a year, will protect well enough. I would even do just a light coat. Sanding paint is harder than sanding a light rust. << Primer is so porous it's a waste of time and money to sand down to the bare metal and just prime it and think it's not going to be rustier than it was 6 months earlier. You have to apply at least one top coat to seal it from moisture. This is especially important on mine because the top is pitted with deep rust where the barn roof leaked water on the car,and the many coats of paint had cracked and let it puddle. That is the attraction of the "Paint and Primer in One" Rustoleum paint. It's $6.98 per 12 ounce spray can,while I would be paying $5.98 for a can of the regular primer,and another $5.98 for a top coat. Saves both time and money because I don't have to wait for the primer to flash before spraying the top coat. Which is especially important when you are painting one outside and live up a dirt road. You never know when a car is going to come by and throw up a could of dust,and the last few days have been cloudy and threatening rain. I need to get the paint on and have at least a hour for it to set up before rain or dew hits it. Right now I am doing maybe 6 sq feet at a time,and then letting it sit up overnight to cure the paint before moving on to sand to bare metal and paint another 6 sq feet.
Also, on your two part epoxy, use throw away measuring cups and only use what's needed to do one panel at a time. Once I get it inside and have all the body work finished,I will prep the whole car and prime and paint it per Dupont's specifications. Not sure off the top of my head how long I have to let it sit before applying the sealer,or how soon the sealer has to be applied because it is all dependent on temperatures and humidity,but I'm going to follow instructions. Also,when I do paint it,the doors,truck like,front fenders,hood,glasses,and all trim will be off the body and painted separately. Wear a respirator for sure. Not really sure a respirator is necessary when rolling it on or using spray cans with both my exhaust fans going. Each one is rated to flow 1850 cu ft of air per minute,so I should be covered there. I will check it out before trying it,and may have a problem if I do have to use a respirator because I have COPD and my lungs aren't strong enough to pull air in through a respirators filters. Which is why I plan on using rollers and the tiny paint guns you can buy that hold a few ounces of paint at a time for the places too small to use a roller. If you change mind and wish to spray the epoxy, make sure machine is good enough to pump it, I have a complete HVLP "airless" setup,but because of the COPD and breathing regulator problems I am hesitant to use it. Plus I have shop cats,and they can't wear respirators. I plan on shutting them up in my office with AC while painting and the paint is curing,but better safe than sorry. I did buy a "fresh air" compressor from a dentist office a few years ago to use with a face mask if I ever needed to,but have never looked into what it would cost to buy the mask and rig it up to use. This is the unit they used to give air to people they sedated,so it should work fine if I ever use it. Not sure it's worth the additional expense to just use 3 or 4 times if I can get just as good a job with rollers and spray cans.
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